In the past couple of days I’ve been working on a muslin for a vintage pattern. The pattern is DuBarry 5020. There is no date anywhere on the pattern, instruction sheet or envelope but my guess is that’s it is from some time in the 1940s. The skirt with suspenders and the blouse are actually something I’d wear together for the right occasion or setting but I digress. I’m actually working on the muslin for the blouse. The blouse itself is very simple in construction but, as with most patterns, it needs some tweaking.
I have the size 16 for 34 inch bust. The only adjustment I made prior to cutting the muslin was to add a some width ad the waist (not shown in the pictures). After having finished the muslin, I realize a few more alterations need to be done. For example, I have to add length below the waist. The blouse is too short, mostly because it’s meant to be worn with the high waisted skirt on the envelope. What you see in the picture is exactly the length of the blouse as per the pattern before even hemming. With hemming, I’d like the blouse to be a little bit longer than what you see here. Another thing I must do is add a bit of width at the lower end of the sleeves. That area is snug, especially when I lift my arms.
That brings me to my next point. When I lift my arm, the whole blouse comes up. I’m not sure how to go about fixing that. Do I need a higher armhole? This is the main reason I’m posting the muslin, I need advice about how to fix that particular problem. I know there will always be some pulling but I feel that in this case, it’s more than normally expected. I think that is all far as adjustments but feel free to point out anything else you think needs to be fixed. Muslin is not the best fabric for this blouse so it looks a bit odd and stiff. However, once finished it with fashion fabric, it will look better. The angle of the pictures is horrible, it makes my upper body looks bigger in proportion to my lower body than it really is.
raise the armscye, bringing it as close to the armpit as you are comfortable with. you will have to alter the sleeve, too. Alternatively, you can add a “fisheye” or “football” shaped gusset to the underarm. Also, for improved arm movement in such a fitted shirt, the seam should hit at the shoulder joint (there’s a dent that forms in your flesh between arm and shoulder when you lift your arm up and back).
it also looks like you could use a swayback adjustment (the waist in the back looks lower than your natural waist) and a small full bust adjustment (it looks a bit snug over your bosom)
As well as raising the bottom of the armhole, I think the shoulder is too wide. But put both sleeves into the muslin with a shortened shoulder seam before you cut the real fabric.