A few months ago I made a video about apportioning drafting books based on late 19th century drafting systems. Earlier this week I made a follow up video to include other books from that period as well from the Edwardian period and going into the 1960s. Not all of these books used apportioning systems; some use your specific different body measurements for the draft.
The idea is to give you the tools to either supplement commercial patterns or bypassing them altogether by drafting your own. At the very least, I hope you take away the fact that you have options, even if you have no drafting experience or training, which these books don’t require. You just have to be willing to experiment and learn.